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Curator

Where to Find Peaceful Moments (and Proper Pasta) in Eternally Chic Marrakech

The ancient city of Marrakech has bounced back after the pandemic and an earthquake with new riads flaunting natural beauty, contemporary design, and even some amazing Italian food.

October 23, 2024 By MAURA EGAN
Riad Rosemary. Photo: Marina Denisova

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I recently returned to Marrakech for the first time in five years. I wasn’t sure what to expect after the pandemic, last year’s earthquake, and years of increasing development. I’ve jokingly referred to the Red City as the Palm Springs or the Miami of Europe: a place that the French and British visit for a weekend of sun and fun, which doesn’t always make it sound that exciting to the curious traveler. But I’m happy to report back that after this trip, the city felt much more dynamic and had a youthful energy, much of it courtesy of local Moroccan creatives. You can see it at shops like Moro, a concept store, atelier, and small hotel run by artist Mohcyn Bousfiha and entrepreneur Mouad Mohsine, who started the cult fashion brand The Moroccans; at the Pétanque Social Club, a restaurant, bar, and walled garden by local restaurateur Kamal Laftimi; and at DaDa, a new art space and restaurant right off the Jemaa el-Fnaa square. It was also inspiring to see a crop of new riads in the medina and beyond, which feel like a great counterbalance to the city’s grand hotels. Here were some of my favorites.

Rosemary
Although designer Laurence Leenaert’s five-room property has been Instagrammed countless times, photos can’t truly capture the exquisite beauty of this place. The Belgian designer, known for her made-in-Morocco lifestyle brand, opened her riad just weeks before the earthquake. Fortunately, it didn’t suffer much damage, which is good because the riad—from the stained-glass doors to the terrazzo floors to the octopus mosaic made from zellige tiles in the hammam—is an homage to Moroccan craftsmanship, with just a touch of her cool-girl whimsy.

Riad Mena
The best thing about Riad Mena, besides the casual mix of Moroccan design and modern European accents (the bathrooms are by Philippe Starck) is owner Philomena Schurer Merckoll. Even though she’s an expat (of German-Danish descent by way of London), she’s a tireless cheerleader of Marrakech’s homegrown talent and knows anyone and everyone in town. Whether you’re lounging over mint tea in the plant-filled courtyard or having a meal on the rooftop, you are likely to strike up a conversation with someone interesting.

The pool at Farasha Farmhouse. Photo: Tristan Hollingsworth

Riad Romeo
The ’80s Italian designer Romeo Gigli and his wife, Lara Aragno, a jewelry designer, bought a house here in the medina nearly two decades ago. But it was during the pandemic that they decided to renovate and turn it into a five-bedroom riad. The airy, elegant space is accented with lantern-like Art Deco lamps, hand-painted headboards, and graphic pops of pastels—it’s Morocco by way of Milan. The 74-year-old designer and his wife plan to sell various wares they design, and it’s perhaps the only place in town where you’re guaranteed an excellent bowl of pasta.  

Farasha Farmhouse
Located about 30 minutes from the center of town, Farasha Farmhouse is the passion project of Fred and Rosena Charmoy, the couple behind Boutique Souk, the popular Marrakech-based events company. The house and surrounding farm was once the home of the French painter Patrice Arnaud, and that bohemian spirit is still very much alive. The villas and suites are decorated with vintage furniture, Beni rugs, and stacks of books from Diana Vreeland’s personal library—a gift from her son Freck, who was the U.S. ambassador to Morocco for many years. The olive-tree-lined pool, the courtyard with long farm tables, and the open kitchen all offer a nice balance of privacy and community for the guests.

The Casa Loma Beach hotel’s bar and pool. Photo: Chris Mottalini

Fall Arrivals: From a Hidden Gem in New Jersey to a Swish London Outpost in Manhattan

Pendry Natirar, New Jersey
Yes, New Jersey finally gets a world-class hotel. Set on 90 acres in Somerset County, this former estate, once the countryside retreat of the King of Morocco (while his sons attended Princeton), is now Pendry Natirar, a stunning 66-room resort. Located in the sprawling wooded Natirar Park, the hotel features Ninety Acres, a farm-to-table restaurant; a working farm with chickens, sheep, and an apiary; and various sitting rooms and libraries with enormous fireplaces, making it an excellent weekend escape. The spa features three pools, a Himalayan-salt room, and mud treatment rooms that use eucalyptus and jasmine grown right on property. pendry.com

Casa Loma, Laguna Beach
Once known as the Inn at Laguna Beach, the new Casa Loma Beach Hotel sits on the town’s main beach. After a $15 million renovation, the hotel now features 70 rooms done up in a cool California coastal style, many with views overlooking the ocean or the pool. casalomalagunabeach.com

The Twenty Two, New York
In December, The Twenty Two, a swanky London hotel and members-only club, comes to the Flatiron District. Housed in the former home of socialite Margaret Louisa Vanderbilt Shepard, the hotel features 77 rooms and suites as well as Cafe Zaffri, an all-day restaurant from the chefs behind New York’s The Musket Room and Raf’s. thetwentytwo.com

The Standard, Singapore
Located in Singapore’s exclusive Orange Grove Road neighborhood, the 143-room Standard opens here next month. The hotel, just a short distance from the Singapore Botanic Gardens (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) and some of the city state’s best shopping, also features Kaya, a Japanese izakaya-style bar and restaurant. standardhotels.com

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